A idle 10minutes on the white porcelain thinking chair made me ponder why two shafts that are identical in appearance/ length/ diameter are different flexes??
Probably a dumb question and goes to show that I have little idea of the job that the thing that does all the work during my swing does and how it is made??
lots of questions but basically the whippier the shaft the slower you can/or are able to swing, Stiff for the young men - no jokes please -, whippy for the ladies - again no jokes -. As for what you pondered on the porcelain, apart from Fat shafts then there are regulations pertaining to lenght and diameter of shafts and common sense ie you wouldnt have a 2 foot shaft for a driver as you cant generate the extension and therfore the clubhead speed.
Watch the trick shot guys online especially the 15foot driver and see it being skelped outta sight, they also use a rubber shaft to show you have to 'wait' for the clubhead to catch up.
Ahhhhh I see what you mean, good question and not really thought of it- maybe need more porcelain time - I would guess its due to the manufacturing process especially with graphite where the stiffer shafts are heated to a higher temp or longer to 'cure' the graphite................
I could of course be totally wrong so look forward to hearing from someone who knows..
maybe my friend Mr Google could provide the answer
Robo, this is about the 3rd time I've tried to write this in plain English!!
Compare 2 identical Demo 6 irons with Dynamic Gold parrallel tip shafts in, one Reg and one Stiff. Put the clubs side by side and you will see that the steps in the shaft of the Stiff are lower down than the steps in the Reg, that's because the shafts are the same but the Stiff is trimmed at the tip before sticking in the head.
In a nutshell, the Regular has a longer section of thin shaft compared to the Stiff, hence the Reg is slightly whippier. Not brilliantly written I know, but hope I get the message across!!
Maybe a better way is to say look at the distance from the hosel to the first step in the shaft, it will be longer on the Reg shaft.
I'm pretty convinced that rgjusa will give a much better description!!
no real idea but would guess as far as Graphites are concerned then its due to the weave patterns and amounts of layers of graphite within the shaft at different points which will also be used to affect kickpoint etc?
If you look through all the marketing blurbs youo have spiral wound, cross weave, multilayered, etc etc........ this must alter the playing characteristics (somehow) - - as Pasty says, rgjusa ??????? (or Shaun @ Midas?)
What I am struggling with is mate bought a 909 fairway off fleabay with a lime green matrix ozik in it - can find loads of info on the red ones, his is identical but lime green and apparantly that shaft costs $200 more than a red one. Didn't know green paint could be so expensive!!!
What I am struggling with is mate bought a 909 fairway off fleabay with a lime green matrix ozik in it - can find loads of info on the red ones, his is identical but lime green and apparantly that shaft costs $200 more than a red one. Didn't know green paint could be so expensive!!!
I have some shaft profile software from Wishon that allows you to run a match on shafts within n% of the reference shaft. It is interesting to run it against the Matrix shafts and see what match it. I have managed to shatter many an illusion with it.
"In a nutshell, the Regular has a longer section of thin shaft compared to the Stiff, hence the Reg is slightly whippier."
Not necessarily true, the thickness of the tube, plus the butt design, all add up, its not just down to the tip, and distance to first step. You need to take readings at different points and compare profiles before any of the numbers make any sense, and neither is it always true that the whippier the shaft the slower you can swing. Many longn hitters can use A flex and smack them miles, and many seniors could be specced for stiff, what matters is the speed of your transition, and the point at which you release the club, plus your angle of attack. Getting fit properly is far more important that worrying about the numbers, the numbers only mean something to an expert who can use them to compare shafts and apply these numbers to your swing. On their own, they are just numbers.
ie Nippon make variable weight shafts, S300s aren't variable weight, does this matter, and does the tip section of a True Temper, at 7", compared to say a 7" step in a Nippon mean anything? They will play totally differently.
Good questions to ask though, but the answers are meaningless unless in the mind of a guy who can use them to help you. Great point is the difference between Diamana White, Red and Blue Board shafts. These are totally different profiles, not for slow and fast swingers, but DIFFERENT swingers. Long lazy early releasers, versus hard fast late releasers, as an example in the extreme.
With irons, loads of things come into play. Imho, after 30 years of messing with my swing and mucking about making my own clubs, I still know very little. Apart from, I need lighter shafts than I care to own up to, I need a regular shaft yet can hit a 6 iron 170, I hate tip stiff drivers, and yet I can carry 270, and yet I need X 100s in wedges. I should have seen a pro years ago, would have saved me a fortune on Ebay.
I hot teen drives with my 510 TP/757, and then topped the first 5 with an R7 Limited, only difference really being the shafts were completely different. I couldn't flight the Oziks at all. Shafts are massively important, but its the flight that tells you what you need.
Hope that helps. I have gone to Nippon 950s, at 97gs when cut, constant weight, and in a stiff they profile out as a soft stiff when compared to True Temper, and probably regular in a Project X. Yet nearly every high handicapper at the range I use has S300s, which are irons aimed at Tour players and hard hitting amateurs (not kidding). Its the equivalent of Messi turning up for the Champions league final in hob nails.
Imho, after 30 years of messing with my swing and mucking about making my own clubs, I still know very little. Apart from, I need lighter shafts than I care to own up to, I need a regular shaft yet can hit a 6 iron 170, I hate tip stiff drivers, and yet I can carry 270, and yet I need X 100s in wedges. I should have seen a pro years ago, would have saved me a fortune on Ebay.
Having been into messing about building my own clubs for the last five years or so the above comment is something which I can totally relate to.
Perhaps the most succint 5 lines of text ever written about the "black art" of club fitting!!!!
Usually they are heavier but not necessarily because it goes further down the shaft as the designer can put the weight where they like to achieve the balance/flight/feel that they are after. Same with the kickpoint. What you will find with shafts if you profile them that some are stiffer in certain sections than others, have different balance points, and different overall weights. To use the DG as an example, the difference is weight related in that particular make. That is why you'll see flex designations like R200, R300, R400, and so on. Weight is the major difference - 200 is lighter, 400 is heavier. R300, S300, X100 are the standard flexes. About 3 grams is the actual weight difference. For example, an R200 may play a little more flexible than the R300 and the R400 may play a little stiffer than the R300 only because of the weight.
