 Have all the bits and have started marking each shaft with trimming details. Have stuck a piece of masking tape on each shaft with each iron number - so I don't mix 'em up. I will be building 4 - SW with TT Dynamic Gold regular shafts 1/2" shorter than standard. First off I am marking and double checking the tipping details - Because of shortening I am thinking of soft stepping each iron - so instead of tip trimming the 4 iron shaft 1 1/2" (as recommended) I will trim it 1" and the 5 iron from 2" to 1 1/2" Will this help keep the flex the same? Oh - I also bought these neat ferrules to match the blue and black Sharpro grips
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 On steel shafts you will not feel any flex change, but 1" shorter is an enormous amount, almost a childs set, why that short? Remember also that the lie angle will significantly alter 1" shorter, my advice is to get fit FIRST for the length of shafts (I used True Length Technology) THEN adjust for lie. But if you insist then soft stepping is fine Why not buy some old Hogans, (best quality forged) and play around? they can be adjusted upto 4 degrees without creasing because they were so well made, can't say the same for modern forgings. And why TT DG? Even in reg they are a heavy shaft, the Dynalites and Super Lites may help your swing and increase swing speed, so again, why those?
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Altered it W- B I meant 1/2" - consistency main reason. I play stiff Dynalites already W-B I also have a set of DG's in reg. on some Howson Triumph irons that are bloody good too - used to be my gamers years ago, till they wore out (well got tatty). I hit DG's well and not as high as the Dynalites. I also like their heft  and don't want to weight up the heads. I have forged heads that will be adjusted for me after the build - but like the driver I want to learn summat along the way. I'm not worried about the few bob it's cost - if it fails it fails - but at least I will know why. If it works as well as the driver - I'll be delighted Alan
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Alan When you say adjusted AFTER the shortening, whe are they taking your lie angle readings, before? Because they will be different when shortened. I have just spent 3 months working on my set btw, several sessions on dynamic lie borads and LMs, then several emails and quite a bit of money emailing Dan Connolly, buying some forged heads, messing with shafts, and then having the lies altered. Then more testing, then even more. Lofts have also been slightly strengthened. Lie angles are hugely important, have you had yours checked by someone experienced?
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Can't have 'em checked before - because the clubs have to be built before the lie can be checked and adjusted. Current clubs (Mizuno) had the lie checked professionally - of course
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Well you can't use the same lie angles on a shorter set!
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 Lol not this again..... 
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Its normal, don't worry about it
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Lol, dont u use gloves either worm?
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| Edited: 21/02/08 18:43 |
RB3 No glove Pepper I admire Alan for building his own set. But you can't use lie angles from a standard set, and apply them to shorter shafts, doesn't make him a twat though.
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Well you can't use the same lie angles on a shorter set!
That's why I'm gonna do it after they're built
Two ways to check
1) Take stance - address position with club - pound coin should fit under toe (to account for shaft droop). 2) Use striker board with marker tape on sole of irons check for consistent 'middling' after taking a swing (only way to check correct strike)
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Forget the coin, shaft droop is only relevant to the forces incurred during a swing, so a lie board is the only way to check
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ps good luck 
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Always do a dynamic fit!!!!!, and worm ive not used a glove for 15 years...hate the things... Taz go do the course.... its a really good way to learn, they cut out all the bullshit.. plus its great fun..... But seriuosly tho.... im just fettling with 2 callaway x forged wegdes... im reaming them out to .370 so u get a greater range of shafts... its great...... dosnt matter if u cock it up, thats how u learn.... Worm have u used pured shafts yet??? mine are pured in my z9's, shot pattern alot better...... discuss.....
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| Edited: 21/02/08 22:13 |
Just an unneccessary expense imho. I prefer the feel of both hands on the club
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Ok - did all the difficult stuff following True Tempers guidelines on tipping Dynamic Gold shafts - carefully trimmed each tip inserted into the head marked with a felt tip and then abraded that section with sandpaper. Once all the tips were done put all the ferrules in a glass of boiling water and then one by one fished them out slipped them over the tip and rammed them home to the right point with each respective head. Thanks to tips from you guys that bit was a lot easier.
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Next was the important bit - thoroughly cleansing the hosel and tip with meths, making sure there was no oil residue or dirt to spoil the adhesion. Then I used a cocktail stick to wipe an Araldite mix inside the hozel ensuring it was well wetted but not too much. The tip then got well coated by turning it in the Araldite, making sure none went up the shaft. Pushed each one together squeezing out the excess between hozel and ferrule and wiping the joint clean. At present they are propped upright curing in a warm room. Looking good
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Just the grips then - super Admit it - they're damn pretty ain't they?
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Those Sharpros are superb grips, wise choice. Heads look like they are morfing into the wallpaper. Look good though.
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 They do look good! This post has got me interested - I really fancy stepping up to the plate and building a new driver - is rthe process the same?
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