Shaft upgrade what benefits?

09/09/2005 at 16:51
I keep hearing about people in various posts about upgrading shafts.

As to what benefit to me a 25 handicaper casual player would I see? would I be better of spending my money on lessons instead (already doing a block of 6)

Have used rental clubs with UST proforce shafts and they seemed to go well.

Would say upgrading a howson rescue with and Irod shaft or a Cobra 3 wood with a pro force really make that much difference and be worth it.

Have had a look on golfsmith website and unsure as to what would suit me.

Any thoughts or should I ask DR Nick?
09/09/2005 at 17:33
The best way to find out which head/shaft combination is `best` for you is to try them.
Most manufacturers have demo days, go along and try as many combinations as you can and watch the ball flight.
Some golf stores have nets connected to a computer simulation of ball flight.
There are also some `fitting sites` on the net which if you give `honest` answers as to your current equipment/ball flight can suggest components to give desired ball flight.
True Temper do a shaft fit site.
T.M. do a driver fit.
No doubt other manufacturers also have virtual fitting centres.
Welcome to the search for the ultimate set of golf clubs.
09/09/2005 at 17:46
In my humble opinion -
Lessons first while you are still developing, otherwise shaft changes are going to just confuse things and cost money. As long as you are using good brand gear with lofts and lies checked for you and you haven't got a pro's swing speed then reg. shafts should be fine.
My own personal experience is that I have a very quick turnaround in my swing and cannot use irons with graphite shafts - driver though is fine for me as a regular shaft.
09/09/2005 at 20:28
Definitely ask Dr Nick. He'll prescribe the incorrect shaft at an overinflated price. That'll cure Yer!!
09/09/2005 at 21:01
My answer is that in all probability it is not worth the money or effort to reshaft a club in the hope of non-specific benefits.

If you have a particular issue, e.g. you hit the driver too high, hook all your woods, etc, then a specific type of shaft could help reduce the problem, although a lesson could do so also.

I would probably stick with the lessons, and as your game improves and you change equipment, take care to choose equipment that suits your game, swing speed, etc.

09/09/2005 at 23:37
Wait for your handicap to come down first then you will be able to notice the benefits more.
09/09/2005 at 23:52
before you drive yourself too nuts trying to pick a "hot new" shaft model, start by determining what fits YOU.

1) first, determine which shaftweight best fits your tempo athleticism.
2) then, look @ shafts, in that weight range, that suit your swing type (see below).
3) from those, choose the shaft(s) w/bend profiles that best suit your overall ballflight needs.

fitting bend profile to swing type:
* the longer the swing arc & the smoother the transition from the top of the backswing into the downswing, the better suited the player will be to a shaft w/a softer butt-section.
* the shorter the swing arc & the more aggressive the transition from the top of the backswing into the downswing, the better suited the player will be to a shaft w/a stiffer butt-section.
* the longer, into the downswing, that a players retains his/her wristcock (delayed release), the better suited the player will be to a shaft w/a stiffer tip-section.
* the earlier, into the downswing, that a player begins to release his/her wristcock (early release), the better suited the player will be to a shaft w/a softer tip-section.

this formula will get you off of the trial & error merry-go-round.


jeff/clubfitters

* taken from www.bombsquadgolf.com
10/09/2005 at 12:46
Hi everybody!

Fujikura VT80XXXX tipped 4 inches without a dobut.

Seriously i would say yes. The shaft is the engine of the club and some of the stock offerings are crap. If you have a few quid to spare Ian just try reshafting one and see how you get on
11/09/2005 at 10:38
Bit hit and miss though Nick?
I don't agree that in decent clubs stock shafts are crap. A proper re-shaft on a fairway wood can cost anything between £30 and £80 and don't forget Ian's a high h/capper.
Few quid to spare might be better spent.
11/09/2005 at 15:07
what decent club has a reasonable stock shaft?
11/09/2005 at 15:57
The Exxar (sp?) shaft Mizuno use is supposed to be very good.
A lot of good players at our place have gone for the G2 in stock stiff rather than the NV or Prolaunch.
11/09/2005 at 16:00
The Mizuno shaft, Exsar 60, is alright, nothing special.
11/09/2005 at 18:00
Most of them - for the average hitter - not saying they suit everyone no more than one size of shoes would suit all.
The shaft you suggest might be your nirvana Nick but how do you know it would suit Ian?
Plus I know lots of single figure players who use stock shafts reg & stiff in Titelists, Cobras, Nikes so are you saying they are all wrong?
Pros are a different kettle of fish.
11/09/2005 at 18:09
The shaft i suggested was a joke!

The stock shafts cost a couple of quid to make and are nowhere near as consistent.

If some single figure players use stock shafts thats up to them and i am not saying they are wrong but a lot of them could get better results if they spent a few quid and got decent shafts

So what if Ian is a 25 handicapper? Getting the right clubs for you isnt exclusive to 10 handicap and below. I know a lot of high handicappers who are good ball strikers.

I was an 18 handicap until i started paying attention to my equipment. I have come down 6.5 and sure other people could so if they did the same
11/09/2005 at 18:15
Great joke advice then and some good generalisations there Nick.
Who said anything about not getting the right clubs or not paying attention to equipment?
11/09/2005 at 19:04
If you read my post properly you would see it was a joke!

You have as you are saying he shouldnt reshaft!
12/09/2005 at 23:55
Ian my 2penneth..

If you are a 25HC with a fast swing eg. you may be playing the wrong shafts. I started playing 4 years ago and was sold whippy graphite shafted clubs and a 9 deg ERC2.I was loosing ~10 balls a round..

After lessons I was told by the Pro to flog them all and buy clubs with 'stock' stiff shafts and more lofted driver >10.5 deg - it made a huge difference, suddenly the ball started going straighter. I bought standard length irons.

HC came down quite a bit and swing (though still ugly) became more repeatable. I then invested in custom fitting of all my clubs. This is the next step forward and obviously expensive but again made another HC improvement.

I found I needed longer irons and 2 deg upright lie. Ball flight was predictable and there was far more consistency through the set (swing weight etc).

Custom shafts are defo worth the money if you take your golf quite seriously. Better to buy a S/H club off Ebay with a shaft upgrade, than a cheapo stock shaft in the latest bang wizzo club. Shaft is the engine of the club.

This all being said, a smooth swinging scratch player can adjust his swing/stance to hit almost any club dead solid perfect. Seen this on the range and it is humbling...

Good advice in thread above.. try a demo day.. using same club different types/flex of shafts. Borrow mates clubs, other range users etc. Dont rec Golfsmith for shaft advice better to ask your Pro who can see you/your ball flight in action.

Smart move to commit to lessons as well as upgrading equipment.
13/09/2005 at 00:06
... also...If you are near Greetham Valley GC in Lincs on the morning of Sun 25th or can play in the GM International, then you can demo some top drawer equipment from SMT /Midas Golf - including custom spec Accuflex shafts. Shaun at Midas can build you a dream set of clubs.

Other forum members will let you try their clubs too. Saves you from making costly purchase mistakes under sales pressure in a busy shop.
14/09/2005 at 15:09
The shaft is the engine of the club - so important.
Key for a high handicapper:
1. Torque - need more to get more distance
2. Low flex point (those "hinge-in-the-middle" Mizuno Exsars with the high flex point are fine on the driver for a competent player - utter crap on the fairway woods. I swapped the Exsar on my MP001 5 wood for an Aldila VX (cheap) - what a revelation!)
3. Lighter is better. Cheap clubs come with graphite shafts around 80g. Swap a 55-60g shaft into your driver (Grafalloy Attacklite or one of the UST's) and watch your swing speed and thus distance go way up.
15/09/2005 at 08:59
Many thanks to all those who have responded and you have given me a few things to think about.

Firstly continue with the lessons and will ask the pro of what he thinks for my woods shafts suitabilty. (yet to take a lesson on the woods, been swing and short game)

Have priced up some good cheapish shafts and may consider replacing one of my clubs as an experiement(prob my driver as TMade Burner 860 9.5 degree stiff shaft prob not suited to my swing)

regarding the driver would a change of shaft help or am I best suited scrapping it and getting something new. (have tried a donnay slammer 12 degree but not hit it any better or consisntantly than the burner)

Have also bought some cheapish woods off ebay and will be trial running them soon.

Many thanks

Ian
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