Adjusting Iron Lofts.

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Adjusting Iron Lofts.
Hi,  Can anyone advise on how easy it is to have a set of irons adjusted for loft, and how much they can be adjusted by?I have a set of forged irons which I get on really well with, so much so that I bought the additional 2 iron to go with 3-PW.   However, I'd like to have them adjusted so that they are all about 1 iron less in terms of loft, I think it’s about 4 -8 degrees depending on the club.That would mean that the 2 iron loft would be where the 3 iron loft is now, but where I think a 2 iron ought to be (about 20 degrees).  This would be a 2-3 degree adjustment I think.Then I'd like the irons to be 4 degrees difference throughout the set to the PW, which would go to 52 degrees.  However, I think the PW is currently 46 degrees, so is that too big an adjustment?   The SW is 56. (At the moment, the difference between each club is slightly higher at the top end of the set than the bottom, which does seem odd to me.  I would have thought that it should be the other way around, but there you go).I think that once I get used to the adjustment I’d have a set in which I can hit every iron, and which doesn't have any real gaps.  I'm also a bit old school and think that these lofts are about where irons should be.  All iron sets seem to be a least a club strong these days.I should say that I know this is common, and these irons are superb, so it’s not this particular manufacturers fault.  I guess one OEM must have jacked up the loft of their irons so they could claim their set hit further…but that’s another thread.Is this feasible?  Any advice appreciated. Ta. 

KinseyboyI am only passing on what I have gleaned in playing for so many years and,when I was playing with forged irons, having them checked for loft and lie regularly.The maximum usually accepted to change the loft of an iron(forged) club is 3 degrees and this should only be done IMO by a reputed clubmaker or pro who possesses a modern Loft and Lie machine as it is virtually impossible without using one to keep the lies the same as before.Modern irons do have stronger lofts by as much as one and a half clubs difference so my old 5 iron on my John Letters Master Model equates pretty much to my present 7 iron! It is probably a case of the modern golfer's seeming desire for LENGTH often at the expense of accuracy. You know the sort of thing-"You took a five iron,there??I only hit a 7"(despite the fact that the five iron was five feet away and the 7 missed the green!). If you PM me I can help with the contact details of a Master Clubmaker and Fitter already dealing with several GM members.

I reckon bounce would also be an issue if you adjusted the irons by as much as you're after as well.You're correct in thinking modern irons are stronger than they used to be, purely because of the macho want to hit it as long as they can. If you're after the old school loft's I would suggest ignoring the stamped iron number and add 1 for it's old timer equivelent. 

You will add bounce, plus mess with offset, which may or may not be preferable depending on your swing. I doubt a club fitter will adjust a 46 to 52, anyway, why not just buy a gap wedge? Your set is fine with 20 degree 3 iron, I am at a loss to understand why you would want a longer club at that loft, making it harder to hit consistently . I would just weaken the 3 iron to 21 and have the following set to match

3 21
4 24.5
5 28
6 31.5
7 35
8 39
9 43
9w 48

then buy a gap to 52 and away you go. I can't see any benefit whatsoever strengthening them all by one club just to accommodate a 2 iron. Personally I don't use anything longer than a 4 iron (I can get around to about 4) and then one hybrid between the 3 wood and 4 iron.

Worm.. I read it as he wants to increase the loft through the set, bringing his now 2 iron back to the loft of a current 3 iron and thus weaken the set distance wise...I could though just be misunderstanding your points..

Thats how I read it. So he wants his two iron to have the same loft as his current 3 iron, and as loft is 80% of distance he is hitting a longer shaft.

Why not just put 1/2" extensions in and just pretend the 3 is a two?

Or stick a bit of white tape over the 2 and scrawl 3?

Thanks everyone for all the advice.  It's definitely not as straightforward as I'd hoped.  Didn’t think about bounce and offset...I play well enough with them, so probably best not to tinker too much.  I mean to say that I do hit poor shots, but it's me not the clubs.  I will get them checked for lie and loft by the pro at my club though - thanks for the advice there Boanerges. I agree with many of the comments that it doesn’t matter what loft the club is, and what number it has on the bottom.  If it's working then I suppose it’s best not to mess about too much.  The 2 iron is a good club off the tee, and hits it long(ish) low and straight on par 5's.  Also good for low runners under branches etc.  Quite a useful club....It just seemd odd to me that all irons these days have moved on by one, leaving a large gap between PW and SW.  I gues that creates opportunities to sell rescue club to replace long irons and extra wedges to fill the 10 degree gap between PW and SW.I have tried GW's but I just got confused with so many wedges, so now I just use anything from a 7- PW for approach/pitching/chipping depending on the lie and what’s in the way, and have a SW and LW for bunkers depending on whether it’s a soft or hard lie.  That seems to work, if the fool on the other end does his job anyway.  Anyway, I digress.  I think I’ll have ‘em checked but resist the temptation to mess about. Cheers.

Whoops.Don't know what happened there.  It was formatted before I submitted it.  It had paragraphs and everything! Looks like the ravings of an obssesive.  Fair enough I suppose.

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