Which driver to cure slice?

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Which driver to cure slice?

My slice is becomming quite a problem - is there a certain type/brand of driver which could help this?

 I need a new  3W so thought I could try for an anti-slicer!

What to read...

Ten of the Best: Game improvement drivers

Six of the best: Premium priced drivers

Another great slice cure

Video: Fix that slice in five minutes

Six of the best: Premium priced drivers

Well draw based drivers apparently help with the slice. Depending on how bad your slice is no driver will cure it totally. I would advise going a different route. Using a draw based driver to cure a slice is kinda like using plasters to fix your car. Its much better to work on your swing and the reason you are hitting a slice. Most of the time it is a problem with the setup. Ie open stance at target, open shoulders, bad grip or posture. Working on your swing can eliminate your slice for the longterm instead of making a quick fix.

In my limited experience the best driver to cure a slice is the driver who parks his (or her) car at a golf club, opens up the pro shop, sells various pieces of golf equipment & oddments, and, offers tuition for a reasonable fee.

They're the best drivers by far and they usually drive a tidy motor too!

It would be a good idea to find out why you slice (can be a couple of common causes) and what you should work on to reduce or cure it. Make the investment of an hour with a pro; this will be money well spent because it will avoid you wasting money and time buying and selling equipment that won't fix your slice.You may end up deciding that the amount of time needed working on your swing to totally cure your slice isn't feasible due to time/money restrictions. So you can then decide on the right club to bring the ball back on the straight and narrow. Either a draw-biased club, closed face club, lmore loft, or offset, or any combination of those. Whenever these threads come up everyone says "get lessons!" - and there's an element of truth and logic. But you also have to be realistic about what is right for you - i.e. most of us amateurs have problems keeping the ball straight with a driver. Many of us scramble just to free up the time and money for a round per week or even per month. We don't have the time to spend on the practice range, or having lessons. So if you end needing some "club help" (bias, ofset etc) then do it. Whatever gives you the best result and keeps you enjoying the game.

You slice because the club face is open at impact. There isnt a driver available where the face squares automacially at impact so the only solution is to work out what you are doing and try and stop doing it.

Maybe when *these* threads come up *everyone* advises lessons because *they* think that *is* the best way to *cure* (taken from the thread title) a fault???

I am a slicer of the ball & no amount of heel weighting, closed face angle & offset (even with the clubhead arriving a fortnight after the shaft) could rid me of the banana.

A 1/2 hour lesson on the other hand worked wonders & armed me with the understanding of why *I* personally was slicing the ball (as the underlying reason could be as unique as the individual's swing).

Whilst that wasn't a 100% cure, I at least had the armoury to decipher why old banana boy had reappeared & could adjust accordingly.

Or... You could p!ss-fart on for several weeks chopping & changing kit. As for cost: a

If money is a bit tight at the moment the guy can always get a mate too make a few videos of his swing. Face and and down the line. Post them up on here and i'm sure people can give some real constructive advice. That costs nothing!

I made the point about taking a session with pro because there are different root causes. There can be many reasons (in swing, technique) why people hit the ball with the face open. It could equally be equipment - e.g. trying to play a 9° extra-stiff shafted "tour" (open-faced) driver with a 46" shaft (not much chance of getting that through on an in-to-out plane!) because your best mate who's been playing 20 years nails his one.The lesson with the pro will tell you why. If it's simply poor technique, then it's a choice whether to "equip" around the problem or invest the time in trying to fix the root cause. Or maybe a bit of both. Maybe a draw bias or closed face will give you that little bit of a margin.

I constantly find it amazing how we all know the answer and we all preach the wisdom off get lessons sort out the problem don't just get equipment that helps against a fault.The reality is 80% off us do bog all about it and just continually go out week after week thrill seeking for those good shots.Get an anti slice driver

straightest driver i found was a ladies off set benross driver that costs about 15 quid, straight as a die

LESSONS!!! im afraid to say does not matter which driver you buy if your not swinging properly that SLICE OR HOOK it will be. i know harsh but ive tried the same thing in the past and is only a quick fix buying new gear. Lessons are the only way and will work out cheaper the a new driver . Good luck

An anti slice driver wont do sod all for you if the club face is open at impact.. Thats crazy talk.I have a Ping G10 draw 3 Wood. I can shank that thing like you whould not believe.. if you dont want to have lessons, you could always spend tons of money down the range and get tennis elbow trying to sort the thing out once and for all. 

I have the Ping G5 offset, 10.5 degrees with regular shaft. It doesn't slice nearly as often as my olf Mizuno Blue Fire, although I have recently been working on lightening my grip and trying to swing on a better plane, which also makes a difference!It has helped to a degree, but I'll stick my neck out and suggest lessons to at least determine the cause!

My two penneth. Stand behind he ball on the tee, pick a target down the fairway, set up on a line with the target. Take the club back REALLY SLOW (very important) and then leather it, whilst keeping you eye on the ball until you've hit it. Worked for me this season. Still get the odd one drifting off but this routine has all but cured it. Just as a tester, last week I went back to my old routine, cos I wanted a bit of a rest from trying too hard,  of step up,  couple of swishes, step in, whip it back and smash. Then watch the ball sail off onto the adjacent fairway, screaming "BALLRIGHT, WAHOOOOOO"!  Great fun, but it won't win you any comps. 

Using my Ping G10 I used to get 'creeping slice' of various degrees and tried several strategies to rein it in, with various degrees of success. Tried 'right foot back, tried closing the face more, tried tighter grip... All sorts.

In the end, I accidently found the root cause when I was at the driving range with wet balls: Despite lining up my driver to my ball in the centre of the club face, I was regularly and consistently seeing splash on the toe of the face (and quite high up).

I changed my position so the ball was lined up to the heel (practically under the shaft) and gave a little more of a steeper downswing and I instantly saw dead-straight flights, and water splash in the dead-centre of the face.

I'm not suggesting this is your root cause, but like others have said, the cure is far more likely to come from discovering the cause, not changing a club.

Hope that helps!

It all depends on what type of golfer you are, if you are social golfer without any real desire to have lessons and practice or the time, Then i would recommend a offset driver which will help but not cure a slice but iwll get the ball in play more oftenBut as has already been mentioned that a slice is a swing fault and will persist until you have a lessons but again its all about time, effort, money and what you want from the game.

Dave The Slice wrote (see)

An anti slice driver wont do sod all for you if the club face is open at impact.. Thats crazy talk.I have a Ping G10 draw 3 Wood. I can shank that thing like you whould not believe.. if you dont want to have lessons, you could always spend tons of money down the range and get tennis elbow trying to sort the thing out once and for all. 

yes it will , that's the whole design point off offseting the clubface , so how many of you guys are using zero offset irons ? not me Only blade irons designed for low HC players have zero offset throught the set most designs have a gradual offset that increases as you move up the irons , so why is it when you pull out the biggest hardest to hit club it the bag it is ok to reduce the offset back to zero ? yeh that makes sence !!

Do a quick search there must be loads of threads on this type of equipment, try lessons too, but dont be too surprised when your hitting the ball very similarly with the driver even with lessons, how many times you heard 'Lessons made me worse' if you make radical swing changes they take time to settle in and you'll probably struggle real bad and revert to normal in desperation.Or if you think what the hell, try out a Ben Sayers M1 offset driver, at £30 does it matter if it doesnt work, but it may just sort out your thoughts about your driver swing plane.

This is dreadful. I now have a powerful but utterly irrational impulse to buy a TM Burner Draw, even though I know it probably won't do me any good - I've never even hit one - and I'm maxed out on the credit card. Quick someone, tell me not to buy it!

We can't!!

Buy it! I used to have a TM R5 draw and it was great - never sliced since.

Robert Lee 4 - very pedantic comment- the guy who posted this is complaining of a bad slice. Buying a Draw driver wont straighten this out. It will be a waste of money - all the offset built into the club face will do is make the slice look minutely less terrible. I actually have some zero offset blades which are lovely to hit - when you get it right.

no offence Dave ,pedantic? wasn't meant to be , only an observation , most players play with offset irons , so why not woods ? , get your point though , offset might correct you back  left only a few meters or so but for mid to high handicappers like myself it can make the difference between edge of the fairway and rough. offset/closed clubface/weighting will help with open clubface which you questioned , but not excessive cutting sidespin caused by bad swing. it won't

A draw driver can help a bad slice actually. I had an r7 draw and it helped change my slice into more of a pull, straight left. Then it was just a case of sorting that. Try a MacGregor nvg2 draw. Its a great slicers driver.

draw drivers dont work that well, i actually felt at first it made it worst. instead i sorted my swing out and bought a normal biast driver, turned out to be a good decision

Slicing's very destructive for the confidence, you'll end up doing it with all the clubs if you dont curb it, by all means get a draw driver or offset driver, at least your doing something positive about it and that helps with the internal mind games. What it will probably also teach you is that your swing plane is all to cock, with too steep a swing coming into the ball as the forearms have been thrown out a bit too far from the body forcing you across the line and hitting the ball off the heel.There are as has been mentioned here, and elsewhere, lots of symptoms regarding a slice and its level of severity, it always comes down to swing plane and a healthy backswing and tempo, lessons can help a great deal but they must be made to pay else your back where you started from five minutes down the road.  Why is it so easy to hit a slice and so hard to hit it straight? Bloody stupid game.

I tell you something that is weird. It is extremely easy to unintentionally slice the ball. However, If I set up for a fade, I cannot fade the ball. The ball flight is always arrow straight for some reason. I have no problems at all drawing the ball but I cannot fade it intentionally for toffee.. 

"Topper" i have just tried the Ben Sayers M1 Offset DriverI have the same issue with slicing my driver and i got this club to try.Basically they are very cheap clubs and the offset driver made little to no difference to my slice and my distance fell dramatically To be honest this club is only just worth the £30 price tag as the shaft etc is poor in quality. I also took my Benross V5 Driver 10.5 along at the same time and something odd happened, after swinging the Ben Sayers and then swinging the Ben Ross i found the Ben Ross slice had gone ??I tried this a few times and swop from club to club and most shots on my original driver were far straighter.However as mentioned in your other post, leave the woods at home and work on your irons but if you must get a wood i can suggest stick to a 3 wood and look at the Ben Ross V5 as its a quality club and Nevada Bobs are selling them for £30 approx, but they were about £60 when i got mine.


My former Head Pro at Ashridge GC, Andrew Ainsworth now has a very successful indoor academy at Tring, Hertfordshire.He has designed and is now marketing a driver with lots of loft and a FIVE DEGREE closed face!!If you wish to contact him his email address is andrew@ainsworthgolfacademy.co.uk and tel: 07717441461. I understand that he guarantees that with this driver you will not slice.MOST golfers with this driver would be 40 yards left of the left edge of the fairway!

for a social golfer, the answer is anti slice tee's!!!not sure if they can be bought in the uk tho

Bin the driver and hit something off the tee that wont get you into trouble, for me at the moment it is a 3 wood, before that it was my 5 wood, before that my 4 iron. I got used to hitting my 4i off the tee and worked with my 5 wood at the range until i was happy with that, then used my 5 wood off the tee when a long hit was required, finally found a nice 3 wood i got on with (titleist 909f2) so now use that off the tee. Every time i try the driver it's a 50/50 chance of a monster slice or straight hit and that's not odds i really like.

I have to agree with those that say... 'The ony way to cure a big slice is to remove the swing fault that causes it.' A 'Draw Driver' will help you hit a gentle draw, provided, your setup and swing fundamentals are good. It won't cure a slice.There are many reasons why people slice, the best thing to do, as many have suggested, is go to a good pro who will diagnose your fault and help you correct it. In the meantime, as Kefkef suggests use something else of the tee that you hit well.Mine was caused by over-swinging on the take away, so my arms were always left behind on the downswing resulting in an open club-face at impact. Lots of practice with the 9 to 3 swing helped cure it.Best of luck,the slice can be tamed,Brom.

 A little anecdote to finish of with as every aspect of Driving has been covered.I tried most brands of Drivers and was still slicing my drives, then i bought the Taylor made Tour Burner driver 10.5 Regular shaft and have never looked back since.I can only assume the regular shaft suits my average swing speed. but i love this driver and can hit the fairways easily, and as a result my confidence and game has improved tremendously, the trajectory of the ball when hit by the burner is consistently straight .I have slowed my takeaway right down and just slowly brush the grass and that is of Paramount importance.( that is a CRITICAL), this also applies to all your clubs.Best of luck in the driving game, You will get it sorted.

I too have just got the Taylormade Burner 10.5 reg. shaft.I agree i was checked at  the store for swing, ball speed and swing speed and i tried Mizuno , Adams and the Taylors.They made so much difference i purchased the 3 wood and no. 4 hybrid and they all fly alot better without spin and slice.The Adams came a close second, square head etc but for me the TM was the one.Its defo worth going to the store and be measured / checked and try a few to see which helps.My swing speed is about 90 mph and the regular shafts on TM were spot on for me.  

Get fitted properly..... I had a Cleveland HiBore Xls draw fitted by Cleveland at London Golf Show in March 2008 had the red fujikura shaft and extra tape and it sorted my slice. (etra tape stops you gripping too tightly). My irons were/are pretty straight.Recently I went to Cleveland centre of excellence and was told y driver was  a compromise as the red shaft is heavier and therefore slows the swing and hence you get more control and less club head speed (hence less spin). Well a compromise compared to the change in technology in one year.Tried the new Hls Monster with a lighter shaft and was hitting straighter and further than existing driver. And 'Trackman' tm doesnt lie.

A slice is a swing fault if the club face is square at address.Just make sure you are lined up correctly with the club face square to the target (check this by drawing a big cross on top of a ball then stand behind the ball and line the line to point at the target, the other line will then be parrallel with your club face at address) - 90% of golfers will be VERY surprised with how far out their alignment is with this simple test especially if you are right handed and left eye dominant.If you do the above and are square to the target AND you make sure you take the club back on the inside there is NO WAY you can slice the ball - you might get a big hook but then you will have learned that all slices can be cured by correct alignment and correct take away from the ball - after all the first 12" is the most important.As for draw, anti slice, weights here and there - forget them all until you get down to low single figures and know how to correctly control your swing and what it does to the flight of the ball.... Tom Watson said he only worries about the movement of the takeaway at the  first 12" behind the ball  - enough said. These clubs are gimmicks and nothing more.

Simon,no offence but I'm guessing the '3' in Simon Young 3 is not your age..... by process of elimination and as this is a discussion site on golf would I be close thinking this was your handicap? If I'm right well done...you don't get to 3 on talent alone so hardwork and practice does pay off (and perhaps a few lessons along the way).I'll cut to the chase. Like many on this site I play when I can, which is not as often or as regular as I like. I'm 100% with you on alignment - see my review of 'Line-em up pro' which I used to line up my tee  shots as well as puts. Guess what, I still faded/sliced my drives although I hit my irons straight.Here's my theory, the length of shaft and loft on the driver (along with wanting to hit as far as a 3 hcp'er added to the stress most feel on the tee) means returning the clubface square at impact is a little harder than with other clubs. This is something the club and shaft manufacturers realise and hence have developed the technology to help those less fortunate or who think money can buy anything.So I think neither one of us is wrong although for the less gifted and those who just want to enjoy their golf, I say three cheers for the draw driver, but don't waste money get it fitted. PS - There's a bloke I know called Phil who I think might agree with me as he sometimes carries two drivers. One to draw and one to fade. PPS - trackman revealed that my angle of attack with the driver was slightly decending which created backspin. The cure was widening my stance and teeing the ball ever so slightly higher. I worked although I brought on a slight fade so I'm now able to shape my draw driver left to right.... So why can't Lefty?